loose pinion. One of the things I used to do is never add a drain plug to a differential carrier housing. I would have guessed the nut torque would affect rotational drag only if the sleeve was too short (or the bearings races were worn). I put black rtv on the splines of the yoke and slide it over the pinion and loctite the nut. Regarding pulling out the axles and resetting preload oncear, are you serious? I got digitalo gutschein 7777 the yoke nut back on today took it into the shop to get it done the correct way. But would I reccomend it? I RTV the crap out of everything. The pinion has a crush sleeve in it that - if you over-torque it, will crush excessively and accelerate the gear wear (and it will whine a lot and possibly self destruct if bad enough). Post#2189999, in response to, dD74Chevy.
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Was thinking about getting it tight to where the yoke isnt loose and the wheels still spins freely and just use some blue locktite to hold it in place. Essentially the whole thing has to come apart to do it right and a new crush sleeve with new bearings and races must be used. Lets do a small example, shall. Consult the rear end manufacturer, and/or bearing/gear set manufacturer. Not the pinion nut. It's been centuries since I bought that torque wrench, don't even remember where I got it, but, it is a Craftsman, a very old, but accurate Craftsman.
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